Tag Archive for 'ukraine'

My trip to Ukraine – visiting Zaporozhye

This will be the last post from my Ukraine series. Overall I spent in Ukraine around 5 weeks and visited 4 cities. The last place we went to was Zaparozhye, a city with population of around 1 million people stretching for several miles along Dniepr - the longest river in Ukraine. During our visit we stayed at my cousin who lives and works in the city.

Dnepro GES damZaporozhye is famous for its power plant - DneproGES. It is a huge dam connecting two parts of the city and supplying electricity to the numerous plants nesting along the river bank. It was built in 1932 and is the largest hydroelectric power plant in Ukraine.

We took a walk across it and I should say it was quite a nervous adventure. The bridge above the dam swings with each passing truck and you literally have to hold the railings to be able to stay straight.

Dnepro GES signSomewhere in the middle my cousin commented that the bridge is long overdue for repairs and then I really regretted I allowed him to get me out over there. I truly felt relieved when we were finally over on the other side. By the way, the dam was named after Lenin and still holds that title (you can read it on the sign, in Russian of course).

The entertainment industry in Zaporozhye is not nearly as developed as in Kiev. There is just one bowling club in the city. ;-) We did find what to do however.

Kozak Sitch fenceWe went to the historical museum which is located on the Khortisa island just down the river from the dam. There is a popular belief that in the XIV-XV centuries Khortitsa served as a camp for kozaks, free people who fled from landlords and made a military camp on the island. The museum guide however rebuffed the idea and claimed that archaeological surveys prove that there has never been a camp on the island itself, although there were quite a few kozak camps in other places along the river.

Kozak Sitch inside modelIn 18th century Russian queen Ekaterina II abolished kozaks military organization - the Sitch. Part of the kozaks who fled Russian troops settled on the banks of Dnepr river founding the city of Zaporozhye.

Today the city government with support from private businesses is building a reduced size model of a camp on the island which among other things will have VIP accommodations for important guests. Part of the financing comes from entertainment industry. I was told they use the camp to film some scenes from a future movie about Ukrainian kozaks.

Recycling bottles in UkraineNow this is a bonus shot from the city of Zaporozhye. I captured the scene close to my cousin’s apartment. This may mean nothing to you but the image does revive some memories from my childhood. The lady by the wall (click on the image to enlarge) collects empty bottles for recycling. My dad not once used to send me to such a place to exchange for money the empty bottles we collected over the week. I didn’t mind much since the profit was usually all mine to keep. ;-)

As I already mentioned, this will be the last post from my Ukraine series however I will be happy to answer any of your questions in the comments. Ukraine is an interesting country which offers genuine history and amazing traditions. I hope this series of posts conveys this idea despite some dark bits here and there.

Calling to Russia and Ukraine – money saving tips

Old PhoneI have recently received an email from one of my readers asking how to call Ukraine without spending a lot of green. Since both my and my wife’s parents live in Ukraine (as well as many relatives) the topic of international phone calls to Ukraine has never been off the table and we have probably tried every possible way to save on international calling. Here are a few tips that will help you call Ukraine (and other ex-Soviet countries) without braking the bank.

Check what your current provider charges

If you are using one of VOIP providers the chances are they already have very competitive rates. SunRocket, when it was still alive, even offered $3.00 monthly credit towards international calling. My current provider Packet8 charges $0.13 to call a land line and $0.16 to call a mobile phone in Ukraine, which is a very good rate. For those of you still stuck with AT&T and the likes - read on.

For occasional calls use calling cards

If your provider doesn’t offer good rates and you need to call Ukraine just occasionally then check out this table (also in Russian). These guys are doing a good job maintaining it current. You can buy all these cards online. After you pay, you will receive instructions by email on how to call. I haven’t used calling cards for long time and can’t recommend any particular one. My own experience with those that I used was OK however I heard stories from people who claimed they were cheated (the card had less minutes than advertised).

Have broadband internet - give Skype a try

Skype has pretty decent rates if wearing a headset while talking is not an issue for you. They charge $0.134 to call a land line and $0.186 to call a mobile number in Ukraine. Rates to Russia are $0.048 to a land line, $0.071 to a mobile phone, and $0.021 if you call Moscow or St.Petersburg. There is a small connection charge of $0.039.

You will need to sign up to Skype Out if you don’t have it yet. Once you do so you will be able to call regular phone numbers just as you call other Skype clients. In addition I found Skype Out very useful when calling the US from Ukraine (more about it here).

Calling often - change your long distance provider

If your demands are more than a couple of calls a month and your current provider don’t over good rates then it will be cheaper and more convenient to change long distance provider. You usually can keep your service provider and just change the company servicing long distance calls. I can recommend WDT as one such company offering decent service and competitive rates to Ukraine, Russia and other ex-Soviet countries. I have been their client for several years and many my friends are using them as well.

WDT charges $0.139 to call both land line and a mobile number in Ukraine. For Russia the price is $0.059 for a land line and $0.119 for mobile phones. The rate is just $0.025 per minute when you call Moscow or St.Petersburg. These rates don’t have any connection charges or other tricks. If you want though you can sign up to a “Value Plan” where you prepay for certain number of minutes a month at a lower rate.

Time difference and voice quality

And the last but not the least, when you call Ukraine or Russian, beware of the time difference. When it is morning here in the US, it is late afternoon over there. Midnight here would be early morning of the next day in Ukraine. I have noticed that voice quality varies slightly depending on when you call. This is especially noticeable when calling small towns where they have outdated equipment and century old phone lines. The rule of thumb is try to avoid busy hours when phone service is overloaded. This is usually weekends at night Ukrainian time (Saturday and Sunday morning here).

That is all I have. Do you happen to call Ukraine? What service provider do you use? Please leave your tips in the comments.

The photo courtesy of Rissmu @ stock.xchng

My trip to Ukraine – visiting Kiev

Scenic Panoram of KievAs I mentioned before, our next planned stop was Kiev, the administrative and business center of Ukraine. We spent in Kiev 2 days and were staying with my cousin who moved to the city in mid 90’s and has lived and worked there ever since.

Kiev is a city of parks, churches and construction sites. As you approach it by railroad you can see many scenic views with a mix of all three. The river that splits Kiev into two parts also contributes to the overall beauty of the area.

Construction in KievBeing the capital Kiev attracts more investment and business than any other city in Ukraine. Imagine Washington DC, New York, and San Francisco combined in one piece. Of course you should scale it down to Ukrainian size but you get the idea.

The growth of business opportunities has caused property prices to skyrocket in Kiev. The 2 bedroom apartment my cousin owns now costs about as much as my 3 bedroom house in suburban Chicago. Prices for apartments in Kiev are approximately $100-200 per square foot with prices gradually going down as you go further from city center.

Church in KievAbundance of business is the reason why my cousin moved to Kiev in 90’s. He is a professional freelance sound engineer who has worked with every possible rock and pop band in Ukraine. In 2005 he happened to be at the audio console when then elected president of Ukraine Victor Yanukovish was giving a press conference (the results of that election were later overthrown by supreme court).

Besides his main business my cousin owns a small sound recording studio and sells some equipment on a side. Given his skills there is no way he could have accomplished what he did in any other place in Ukraine. If I didn’t get a job in the US I would probably move to Kiev as well.

My cousin at drumsMy cousin also has a great sense of humor. You can see it from some of the pictures here. On one of them he is posing in his studio at the drums. The other one is taken in Botanic Garden which is a huge park we visited together in Kiev. The sign says: “Beware of ticks. Stay on the trail”. In the background, my wife, my cousin and his wife stage three dangerous ticks. :-)

Forest TicksForest ticks and encephalitis they spread are a big problem in rural areas of Ukraine and Russia. This article (rus) claims that a total of 270,000 people in Russia have become victims of forest ticks since the beginning of the year. I don’t remember this to be such an issue when I lived in Ukraine, but then maybe I didn’t travel that much.

Kiev has even more cars on the streets than Kharkiv making traffic jams a daily attribute of life in the city. The roads are however somewhat better than in Kharkiv. Streets often have clearly marked dividers and drivers can be somewhat polite to each other.

My next stop is Zaporozhye, the city of many factories and the birth place of Ukrainian kazaks. Stay tuned!

My trip to Ukraine – trains and travel

Tea in ukrainian trainThe next destination of my trip is Kiev where I am visiting my cousin. Kiev is the capital and the biggest city in Ukraine. For the trip we decided to take a train - the most popular way of travel over here. Tickets are fairly cheap (around $10-20 one way) and not hard to get unless you travel to hot destinations (like Crimea in summer time).

A few notes on buying train tickets. You can’t get tickets over the phone or using the Internet, you have to do it by coming in person to the train station which is a huge nuisance if you buy in advance. Also, you will need to show passport for each traveler when you buy tickets and when you board the train. The rule is fairly lax however and any form of ID will do.

Train in UkraineThere is often a line of people at the station so be prepared to spend some time. Since the trains are owned and operated by the government there doesn’t seem to be any incentive to change the system. People who have money and want to avoid the wait have to find ways around it. The usual approach is to find a friend or relative of someone who works at the tickets booth and arrange a transaction privately. 10 Hryvnas ($2) in the passport usually do the magic.

Trains in Ukraine run on diesel except for local ones that use electricity. Most of them are fairly old and often dirty inside. Our train was a nice surprise. We took Kharkiv – Kiev “Express” which is a different kind. Unlike a usual train in Ukraine, “Express” is very clean, has friendly stuff, and LCD monitors where they run movies during the entire trip. I was later explained that similar “Express” trains run between all major cities. Tickets are twice as expensive but are well worth it.

Dogs at train station in UkraineI told you earlier about dogs in Ukraine. The dogs on the picture live at the train station and harass passers by. I counted a total of 9 dogs while waiting my train. One couple was attempting to engage in sex. Good my kids were not with me or I would have had difficult time explaining what the little doggy is doing. ;-)

I have recently learned that besides “dogs problem” Ukraine also has “cats problem”. My grand-mom complained to me on the phone that several cats visit her house every day and make mess in the backyard. And just as she said, as we came to visit her last week I saw 3 of these creatures sleeping on the yard fence.

Scenic view in UkraineUkraine is a beautiful country. The central part is flat and has very scenic views. I took this picture of sunflowers as we were leaving Kiev for my hometown. Karpati Mountains cover south-west. I never went there but my friends tell me the area is very nice as well. Crimea Peninsula is the southern part of Ukraine. Crimea has sub-tropical climate and is a popular vacation destination among Ukrainians and Russians.

My next blog post will be about Kiev, the city of churches and construction sites. Until then, hang on over there!

My trip to Ukraine – why Ukrainians are poor?

It is my forth week in Ukraine. We have spent most of our time in Kharkiv but tomorrow we go to the capital (Kiev) for 3 days. I have friends and relatives over there who are eager to meet me and my family. It will be a very good opportunity to compare the two cities and also compare Kiev to 3 years ago when we last went there.

Why are Ukrainians poor?

Homemade Ukrainian FoodWe visited my home town over the weekend and left our kids with grandparents for a week (we are back to Kharkiv right now). During my 2 days stay I enjoyed homemade food (some of it is depicted to the right) and spent quite some time discussing Ukrainian politics and economy with my dad who gave me an excellent however a little sad explanation of why Ukrainians are poor. Here it is:

  • Why Ukrainians are poor? Because they are greedy.
  • Why Ukrainians are greedy? Because they are uneducated.
  • Why Ukrainians are uneducated? Because they are poor.

My dad has a funny way of expressing his thoughts especially after he has a few vodkas. I find this bit especially amusing.

Ukrainian society is polarized

Old Extension CordWe went to my friend’s summer house yesterday. The house is a small cabin near Kharkiv and half-acre of land around it. We ate barbecue, drank beer and talked, talked, talked. My friend runs small business and has radically right (by US standards) views on economic situation in Ukraine. According to him Ukrainians a poor because they don’t want to work. They are grown up with an idea that the government will always take care of them which was one of the premises of the old regime.

My friend told me a story of his neighbor who works for a chemical plant. The guy is as poor as a mouse because the salaries at such places are to laugh at. To add some sunshine to his life he steals fertilizer from the plant and the money he earns selling it on black market is enough for him to buy vodka for a few weeks until he steals another couple of bags. The guy simply doesn’t know and doesn’t want any better life.

Bureaucratic deadlock, stuck in Ukraine

Lenin on top of a building in UkraineHere is the scoop of the problem which affects us directly. Ukraine issues two types of passports: internal to use inside Ukraine and external to use for travel. My wife’s external (travel) passport expired last spring and we obtained a re-entry permit from Ukrainian consulate in the US before going to Ukraine. We planned to get her travel passport renewed in Ukraine however once in Kharkiv we realized that we left her internal passport back in the US (you need to have it with you to renew your travel passport). I promptly asked my friends to DHL me the passport only to find that the Ukrainian law doesn’t allow passports in the mail. Now we (or rather my wife) are stuck in Ukraine without documents to leave the country and we can’t get them from the Government because Ukrainian law doesn’t allow us to receive necessary paperwork by mail. Tell me, should I laugh or should I cry?




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