Tag Archive for 'ukraine'



My trip to Ukraine – visiting Kiev

Scenic Panoram of KievAs I mentioned before, our next planned stop was Kiev, the administrative and business center of Ukraine. We spent in Kiev 2 days and were staying with my cousin who moved to the city in mid 90’s and has lived and worked there ever since.

Kiev is a city of parks, churches and construction sites. As you approach it by railroad you can see many scenic views with a mix of all three. The river that splits Kiev into two parts also contributes to the overall beauty of the area.

Construction in KievBeing the capital Kiev attracts more investment and business than any other city in Ukraine. Imagine Washington DC, New York, and San Francisco combined in one piece. Of course you should scale it down to Ukrainian size but you get the idea.

The growth of business opportunities has caused property prices to skyrocket in Kiev. The 2 bedroom apartment my cousin owns now costs about as much as my 3 bedroom house in suburban Chicago. Prices for apartments in Kiev are approximately $100-200 per square foot with prices gradually going down as you go further from city center.

Church in KievAbundance of business is the reason why my cousin moved to Kiev in 90’s. He is a professional freelance sound engineer who has worked with every possible rock and pop band in Ukraine. In 2005 he happened to be at the audio console when then elected president of Ukraine Victor Yanukovish was giving a press conference (the results of that election were later overthrown by supreme court).

Besides his main business my cousin owns a small sound recording studio and sells some equipment on a side. Given his skills there is no way he could have accomplished what he did in any other place in Ukraine. If I didn’t get a job in the US I would probably move to Kiev as well.

My cousin at drumsMy cousin also has a great sense of humor. You can see it from some of the pictures here. On one of them he is posing in his studio at the drums. The other one is taken in Botanic Garden which is a huge park we visited together in Kiev. The sign says: “Beware of ticks. Stay on the trail”. In the background, my wife, my cousin and his wife stage three dangerous ticks. :-)

Forest TicksForest ticks and encephalitis they spread are a big problem in rural areas of Ukraine and Russia. This article (rus) claims that a total of 270,000 people in Russia have become victims of forest ticks since the beginning of the year. I don’t remember this to be such an issue when I lived in Ukraine, but then maybe I didn’t travel that much.

Kiev has even more cars on the streets than Kharkiv making traffic jams a daily attribute of life in the city. The roads are however somewhat better than in Kharkiv. Streets often have clearly marked dividers and drivers can be somewhat polite to each other.

My next stop is Zaporozhye, the city of many factories and the birth place of Ukrainian kazaks. Stay tuned!

My trip to Ukraine – trains and travel

Tea in ukrainian trainThe next destination of my trip is Kiev where I am visiting my cousin. Kiev is the capital and the biggest city in Ukraine. For the trip we decided to take a train - the most popular way of travel over here. Tickets are fairly cheap (around $10-20 one way) and not hard to get unless you travel to hot destinations (like Crimea in summer time).

A few notes on buying train tickets. You can’t get tickets over the phone or using the Internet, you have to do it by coming in person to the train station which is a huge nuisance if you buy in advance. Also, you will need to show passport for each traveler when you buy tickets and when you board the train. The rule is fairly lax however and any form of ID will do.

Train in UkraineThere is often a line of people at the station so be prepared to spend some time. Since the trains are owned and operated by the government there doesn’t seem to be any incentive to change the system. People who have money and want to avoid the wait have to find ways around it. The usual approach is to find a friend or relative of someone who works at the tickets booth and arrange a transaction privately. 10 Hryvnas ($2) in the passport usually do the magic.

Trains in Ukraine run on diesel except for local ones that use electricity. Most of them are fairly old and often dirty inside. Our train was a nice surprise. We took Kharkiv – Kiev “Express” which is a different kind. Unlike a usual train in Ukraine, “Express” is very clean, has friendly stuff, and LCD monitors where they run movies during the entire trip. I was later explained that similar “Express” trains run between all major cities. Tickets are twice as expensive but are well worth it.

Dogs at train station in UkraineI told you earlier about dogs in Ukraine. The dogs on the picture live at the train station and harass passers by. I counted a total of 9 dogs while waiting my train. One couple was attempting to engage in sex. Good my kids were not with me or I would have had difficult time explaining what the little doggy is doing. ;-)

I have recently learned that besides “dogs problem” Ukraine also has “cats problem”. My grand-mom complained to me on the phone that several cats visit her house every day and make mess in the backyard. And just as she said, as we came to visit her last week I saw 3 of these creatures sleeping on the yard fence.

Scenic view in UkraineUkraine is a beautiful country. The central part is flat and has very scenic views. I took this picture of sunflowers as we were leaving Kiev for my hometown. Karpati Mountains cover south-west. I never went there but my friends tell me the area is very nice as well. Crimea Peninsula is the southern part of Ukraine. Crimea has sub-tropical climate and is a popular vacation destination among Ukrainians and Russians.

My next blog post will be about Kiev, the city of churches and construction sites. Until then, hang on over there!

My trip to Ukraine – why Ukrainians are poor?

It is my forth week in Ukraine. We have spent most of our time in Kharkiv but tomorrow we go to the capital (Kiev) for 3 days. I have friends and relatives over there who are eager to meet me and my family. It will be a very good opportunity to compare the two cities and also compare Kiev to 3 years ago when we last went there.

Why are Ukrainians poor?

Homemade Ukrainian FoodWe visited my home town over the weekend and left our kids with grandparents for a week (we are back to Kharkiv right now). During my 2 days stay I enjoyed homemade food (some of it is depicted to the right) and spent quite some time discussing Ukrainian politics and economy with my dad who gave me an excellent however a little sad explanation of why Ukrainians are poor. Here it is:

  • Why Ukrainians are poor? Because they are greedy.
  • Why Ukrainians are greedy? Because they are uneducated.
  • Why Ukrainians are uneducated? Because they are poor.

My dad has a funny way of expressing his thoughts especially after he has a few vodkas. I find this bit especially amusing.

Ukrainian society is polarized

Old Extension CordWe went to my friend’s summer house yesterday. The house is a small cabin near Kharkiv and half-acre of land around it. We ate barbecue, drank beer and talked, talked, talked. My friend runs small business and has radically right (by US standards) views on economic situation in Ukraine. According to him Ukrainians a poor because they don’t want to work. They are grown up with an idea that the government will always take care of them which was one of the premises of the old regime.

My friend told me a story of his neighbor who works for a chemical plant. The guy is as poor as a mouse because the salaries at such places are to laugh at. To add some sunshine to his life he steals fertilizer from the plant and the money he earns selling it on black market is enough for him to buy vodka for a few weeks until he steals another couple of bags. The guy simply doesn’t know and doesn’t want any better life.

Bureaucratic deadlock, stuck in Ukraine

Lenin on top of a building in UkraineHere is the scoop of the problem which affects us directly. Ukraine issues two types of passports: internal to use inside Ukraine and external to use for travel. My wife’s external (travel) passport expired last spring and we obtained a re-entry permit from Ukrainian consulate in the US before going to Ukraine. We planned to get her travel passport renewed in Ukraine however once in Kharkiv we realized that we left her internal passport back in the US (you need to have it with you to renew your travel passport). I promptly asked my friends to DHL me the passport only to find that the Ukrainian law doesn’t allow passports in the mail. Now we (or rather my wife) are stuck in Ukraine without documents to leave the country and we can’t get them from the Government because Ukrainian law doesn’t allow us to receive necessary paperwork by mail. Tell me, should I laugh or should I cry?

My trip to Ukraine – girls, utility bills, and copyright

Ukrainians on average are slimmer than Americans

There might be a lot of cars on the streets of Kharkiv city but most Ukrainians still use public transportation. I am noticing that I walk much more over here than I do back in the US. I love it and I hate it. I get tired at the end of the day but I feel it is good for my health and once I adjust to the new life style my overall condition should get to normal.

Girls dress up in style

Stylish Ukrainian GirlAnother thing that stands out compared to the US is how girls dress up out on the streets. They wear a kind of cloth Americans will only see at a party or a TV show. High heels and makeup is the norm even if you go grocery shopping. I find this especially appealing combined with the fact that girls here on average are skinnier than in the US.

As a side effect an average Ukrainian girl spends a much bigger share of her budget on dress than a girl in the US. This probably goes deep into cultural traditions and realities of last several decades of life under Soviet regime.

“Bargain hunting” and utility bills

I visited one of my friends last week and as we talked about life he complained about high costs associated with utilities. Then he went on explaining that many homeowners in Ukraine are not ashamed to steal from the government by tampering with electricity, water and gas meters. To prove his point he opened Yandex.ru, a search engine popular in Ukraine, and pulled out schematics and detailed descriptions showing how to do it. Then he confessed he himself is doing it as well.

Ukrainians are very welcoming and well natured people as it goes to personal relations. In fact it is a must for Ukrainians to bring a gift when you visit someone’s home and for the hosts to provide guests better accommodations than they have for themselves. However long years under Soviet regime left people with skewed understanding of what the purpose of government is and how it should work. Steal before the government steals from you is the norm, and according to what I hear, the Ukrainian government does live up to these expectations. :-(

Pirate music, movies and software openly for sale

Do you feel unsettled about continuing existence of services like AllOfMp3? Now grasp this. It is possible to buy pirate movies and music openly on the streets of Kharkiv at practically any subway station and street corner. The movies are packed in collections of up to 11 movies per DVD and sold for 20 Gryvnas ($4) a DVD. Music collections are mostly in MP3 format and have titles like “All of Pink Floid”, “All of Beatles”, etc. I have yet to see pirate software for sale but I was told it is just easily available.

My trip to Ukraine — the wedding party

As I mentioned earlier I was invited to a wedding party over the weekend. In fact one of the reasons we came to Ukraine this summer is this wedding party. The wedding is of my wife’s sister and it has been meant to happen long time ago (we were planning a trip last year as well) but life makes its own corrections.

Wedding Palance in Kharkiv, UkraineUkrainian weddings don’t usually take place in Church like in the US. During Soviet times the government assigned a special official body (abbreviated ZAGS) to register marriages and little changed ever since. I have heard that lately couples do go to the Church after official part is over but this is still not very common.

The wedding palace (ZAGS building) we went to is the central one in Kharkiv and it is very pretty. I took a picture of the front (above). The place is very busy during summer time. When we came we had to wait in line for two more couples in front of us. The whole ceremony in the palace is taking just 10-15 minutes (w/o the wait time) after which the couple usually goes to the World War II Memorial.

Wedding ceremoney at Kharkiv Memorial Here is a short story of the place which was built in memory of soldiers who fought Germans in and around Kharkiv during the World War II. It is a tradition for the couple to bring flowers and spend some time in the park. To the right, you can see them go with flowers to the eternal light burning by the Stella. That little girl behind the bride is my daughter.

From the Memorial the couple and friends go to the restaurant where they spend the rest of the day. Despite the fact that religion is not a significant part of a wedding in Ukraine, the entire event is full of rituals and culturally very distinct. Every little detail has certain meaning. For example before the couple do the “I do” part they together step on a towel and whoever touches the towel first is believed to become the head of the new family.

Bread and Salt at Ukrainian WeddingAt the restaurant parents and guests (who didn’t go to Memorial and the Wedding Palace) meet the young couple with bread and salt and then the party begins. The entire restaurant was reserved to the wedding. Music, funny competitions, jokes, and a lot of toasts and alcohol.

Some of the close friends and relatives come to spend time with the young couple during the second day at their parents house. The entire day is spent at the table full of food and drinks. The “grand finale” was groom carrying his new parents in a small cart outside the house. I don’t know the exact meaning of this ritual but I was told the groom is supposed to overturn the cart in a puddle. ;-)

I would call this a middle-to-upper class wedding. My father-in-law runs a small manufacture in Ukraine which helps him to pay the bills (traditionally parents pay for their children wedding in Ukraine). I am sure there are more modest weddings in Ukraine but there is no question they all are a lot of fun!




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